Very nice mainly snowy route (at the beginning of the season) with some mixed and rocky passages up to 4a. Breathtaking view of the Circus Maudit and the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Mont Maudit is located between Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Blanc at an altitude of 4465 m. It is a very aesthetic summit with little gravel when you climb Mont Blanc by crossing the "3 mountains".









FATMAP difficulty grade



[img=30326 right]Kuffner - Attacks[/img] ## Approach Two accesses are possible: The Kuffner Ridge is usually traversed while sleeping the day before at[waypoints/103949|forks bivouac]].

([[roads/176962|see access]], bivouac often overcrowded).

**This access is no longer possible due to a landslide on the Italian side of the ridge, last info dated[July 8, 2018] (**. A departure from[waypoints/104029|Torino Refuge]] may be a good option.

Pass the [[waypoints/178640|col des Flambeaux]] then bypass the N'[[waypoints/39678|Aiguille de Toule]] and the [[waypoints/37999|Tour Ronde] to reach the cursed combe.

Then win the ridge by the corridor to the very right of the Cirque Maudit, which leads directly to where the ridge straightens up.

Count 1 to 2 hours. ## Route # 3 at 6am [img=178478 right]Kuffner Ridge from the shoulder NE[/img] From[waypoints/103949|bivouac de la Fourche], follow the ridge to the foot of the lower ridge: snowy ridge at the beginning of the season, it quickly becomes dry from mid-July.

The 2 small gendarmes easily turn around to the right.

The access corridor from[waypoints/104029|refuge Torino]] joins the edge at this point. Start climbing towards the jump, then take the obvious corridor on the left (easily visible from the bivouac, in snow or ice).

Depending on the season, the ridge is reached either by the still snowy corridor or by easy rocks. Follow the ridge to the top of the ridge that forms a cornice.

Arriving on a superb snowy ridge very airy but not very steep that leads to the base of the[waypoints/583468|point of Androsace]]. Bypass it on the Brenva side, by a slope of snow and rocks (straps in place, 1 piton).

Then regain the edge thread at a small gap at the foot of the[[waypoints/583468|Androsace]]. #### Variant The[[waypoints/583468|Androsace]] climbs in a few steps of 4.

from the top, a small reminder brings you back to the gap mentioned above.

This small variant makes the race a little longer. The breach forms a small platform that comes up against the upper projection.

Go up this rather steep jump by a corridor first right then to the right and finally to the left to lead to a snowy ridge (end of the snowy ridge NE of the[waypoints/37603|Mont Maudit]). Follow the ridge to the foot of the NE shoulder.

The last jump of 100 m is directly climbed by mixed or easy rocks.

*If necessary, from the shoulder, it is possible to easily reach the descent route via the 3 Monts*. From the shoulder and through a long pickled ridge, reach the top of the[waypoints/37603|Mont Maudit]].

Go along its N side (bypass on the right) and easily reach the summit by a few mixed steps by pouring SW. #### Variant The summit can be climbed directly by the NE ridge (very delicate mixed passages, unstable rocks): first climb the edge line for a few metres and then pass by its right side, then follow a very slight corridor to the summit. ## Descent # 3 at 4am Slightly retrace your steps, and on a steep slope by paying W, easily reach the[[routes/53788|classical route of the Three Mountains].

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