FATMAP difficulty grade



[img=128497 right]Eiger...[/img] [img=262118 right]Eiger face W : summer itinerary[/img] [img=623282 right]Egier 3970 m slope W[/img] ## Approach In Grindelwald, take the Jungfraujoch train to Eigergletscher station. #### In summer From the Eigergletscher station head towards the Eiger by a succession of steps and stone quarries (cairns and fixed ropes).

Arriving at the Rostock (2600 m, bivouac sites just below the summit). #### In winter (or with a lot of snow) From the Eigergletscher station, go up the bottom of the right valley to the W side.

Go up as well as possible by looking for a ski itinerary in the first rocky bars then head for the obvious corridor to the left of the seracs. ## Route #### In summer Attack the Eiger itself at the highest point of a neve/glacier located under the face, at the outlet of a snow-covered corridor very easily identifiable because it is very long and well marked. Pass the rimaye, go up this corridor by crossing a few easy jumps over a hundred meters until you see on the left (by climbing) a fixed rope that allows you to leave the corridor.

The route continues (cairns) from step to step covered with scree. By pulling to the left again, you reach a less tormented and less abrupt area.

Continue N across to the ridge overlooking the Eigerwand.

Follow this ridge which comes up against high walls. Undertake a small crossing under these walls to the outlet of a gully blocked after about fifty meters by an ice cascade.

Exit the chute at this level from the left or right at the cost of a few easy steps of climbing (III). Above the waterfall, cross the entire face towards the S obliquely towards a shoulder that separates (around 3200 m) the rocky part from the glacial part of the face.

From this shoulder, change direction again to go up to the N a small rocky corridor.

The slope becomes steeper and then softer.

We're in sight of an antecime that hides the top. We then reach the ski touring route. The ridge overlooking the Eigerwand is found at the antecime level, which must be bypassed to the E (around 3600 m).

Then head full N, then full E following the ridge towards the true summit on less steep slopes. #### In winter (or with a lot of snow) Pass 2-3 rimayes (and rock) under the serac and at the level of the serac according to snow conditions.

Above the seracs progress between the rocks to the top slope by slanting to the left.

Reach the NW ridge at the highest point and then the summit. ## Descent #### On foot By the same route.

A recall line consisting of sealed bars, clearly visible along the ascent route, can be used for nearly 500 m. #### Skiing By the same route.

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