Statistics

3,568

m

330

m

27

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Moderate

Description

##Base Camp - Camp 1 The base camp is located in a grazing area.

There are 3-4 separate base camps (almost one per Kyrgyz agency). We go up the right bank of a small river to the end of the large meadows.

We continue by a path always right bank along the river.

After 1-2 km, you rise to reach a pass at ~4100m[N 39°26'14""; EO72°53`58.0""]- .

We go down again towards the Lenin Glacier.

Then, the trail makes a long crossing (exposed in places), before diving again to reach the glacier.

It is necessary to cross a river to reach the center of the glacier (may be difficult to cross).

You can then continue the left bank of this river for 100-200 m before reaching the center of the glacier (the river is under the ice).

Then we go up the glacier to 1-2 km from the foot of the Peak Lenin face.

We go up by staying in the center (or on the left as we go up) of the glacier.

The C1 4450 m is located on the stone-covered glacier on the left bank of the glacier (The camp is not visible when going up the glacier, but is easily found). Base camp (3600 m)[N 39°28'30""; EO72°54`49""] Camp 1 (4450 m)[N 39°23'57""; EO72°51`58""] ##Camp 1 - Camp 2 From C1 reach the foot of the face, then go up full center by zigzagging between the crevasses (variable according to the years).

Around 5150m[N 39°22'03""; EO72°51'42.2""], pass under the seracs, then join a secondary edge of the W ridge. The route then drops slightly down into a large basin.

We pass a crevasse zone from above, then we reach the other side of the basin before reaching the glacier and the scree on which the C2 5400 m is placed.

This whole area is cracked. Camp 2 (5400 m)[N 39°21'44""; EO72°52`31""] ##Camp 2 - Camp 3 From C2, go up the glacial slope (~40° max) to the crest of the secondary ridge.

The route climbs directly to the left of the rocky summit.

(Cracked area at the end of summer, wide rimayes but without difficulty).

Then go up the secondary ridge to reach a small 5800 m bump.

Stay 300 m to reach the 6100 m peak.

The C3 is located ~50 m from the summit.

You can also continue 100 m further towards Lenine and camp at the pass ~6030m. Camp 3 (6110 m)[N 39°21'45""; EO72°50`02"] ##Camp 3 - summit From C3, the ridge is very wide, on its side Tajikistan, and is cleared of snow by the wind.

A trail climbs in stages without technical difficulty to a plateau 6400-6500 m (camp possible). Around 6600-6700 m, a steep passage (40-45°, ice possible) over 50-80 m.

Then we arrive at the top plateau around 6850-6900 where we finally see the summit. Cross the tray.

The last 300 meters of altitude difference are not very steep.

The last difficulty is to find the real summit! In bad weather, the edge is wide enough to zigzag strongly.

So here is a GPS coordinate so as not to lose the direction of the vertex:[N 39°20'42.8""; EO72°52'41.8""]<br/><br/>>This Adventure has been shared under the[Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) license.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._