Statistics

1,593

m

1,591

m

32

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Moderate

Description

##Approach ####Since Konkordia Hütte Cross the huge Konkordiaplatz dish, taking care at the end of the season to avoid the bédières which can be difficult to cross, and therefore impose very long detours. Go up the Jungfraufirn by gradually pulling towards its right bank, up to about 3400 m, under the snowy and rocky spur going down towards the E of the Rottalhorn. ####Du Jungfraujoch (or Monchsjochhütte) * In winter and early summer: Go down on the glacier, head SW and bypass the snowy, rocky spur going down to the E of the Rottalhorn. * At the end of summer: go down on the glacier towards the SW and before the low point of this spur, locate around 3380 m a small snow slope (or ice) which allows you to get a foothold on the spur itself at the level of a rain gauge. ##Ascent to the Rottalsattel In winter and early summer: Climb a short exposed slope S at about 30° to reach this wide croup (at point 3506 m). At the end of summer: Go up to the rain gauge.

Then climb to the sighting panel just above.

Then follow NW a well marked path on the wire that leads to a jump that you cross (III).

2 pins with link at the exit.

Then walk on your side towards the W to a memorial plaque.

Then climb through easy rocks to the snowy ridge (point 3506). Rise up the rump easily.

Cross a steeper slope (beware of ledges) to reach the rim under the Rottalsattel (where skis are left). Cross this rim (sometimes delicate) and climb the steep slope above (often made of ice) to get a foothold on the pass.

50 m rope essential if you want to pull the length. ##Ascend to the top * During the ski season, the terminal slope should not normally be made of ice, and it is useless to look for the rocks on its left bank when going up.

Go straight up the wide and magnificent snowy SSE ridge (45°max) to the top. * In summer, however, go up the beginning of this ridge and then reach the rocky ridge by crossing on the left (a metal stake in the middle of the crossing).

Several metal rods on this rocky ridge allow the belay to the top.

Variable spacing between 25 and 50m ##Ski down Rarely skiable from the summit, but possible in late spring or summer.

In principle the descent begins around 4100 m. On the right bank of the ridge, 200 m sustained at 40-45 degrees to reach the pass and its rimaye. On the left bank of the ridge, nearly 300 m at 40-45 degrees.

The rimaye is often crossed more easily by this route.

A small crossing to the S of about a hundred meters and we reach the beautiful passage NE between the seracs (variant described below). If the top edge is not skied, the ski rating is increased to 3.2 / E2 / AD #####Variant of ski or foot descent through the NE Valley of the Rottalsattel From the rimaye under the Rottalsatel come back on a hundred to put in direction SE then dive NE directly between two seracs (S4/200m) to reach the bottom of the valley located at the N of the spur through which the normal track passes.

Go down in direction E.

Around 3450 m pass left bank to avoid a crevasse zone and join the route under the Jungfrau station; or pull full N to reach the Jungfraujoch and the station at point 3475. This variant is not recommended for climbing because it is very exposed to the fall of seracs. <br/>><br/>This Adventure has been shared under the[Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._