A fabulous mountaineering day on the Austrian-Italian border

Statistics

Analysing terrain data

1,344

m

390

m

23

max°

Exposure

Exposure

The exposure grade does not take into account objective hazards (stone fall, seracs, etc) but only the consequences of the skier falling.

Low Exposure: The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.

Medium Exposure: The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

High Exposure: Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Extreme Exposure: The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Description

From the Sulzenauhütte head east, following signs for Wilder Frieger and Gamsspitzl.

Around 1 kilometre out from the hut the path splits, with “Wilder Freiger Leo’s Weg” signposted off to the right.

Ignore this and keep following signs taking you leftwards towards Gamsspitzl (Leo’s Weg is an alternative way to the summit of Wilder Freiger that has become increasingly treacherous due to glacial retreat).

The route then drops before continuing to climb up to the beautiful Grünausee lake (2328 metres). After the lake the path is on grass but becomes increasingly rocky as it climbs towards the Seescharte Col (2762 metres).

At times the path is not clear but there are also red and white paint marks to help you route find.

The last 10 minutes or so before the col feel difficult but keep going because your efforts will be rewarded with an epic view. Hang a right and continue to climb, now on the left hand side of Gamsspitzl’s north-east ridge.

The climb is rocky and requires short sections of very easy scrambling but a rope is not required and the route is clearly marked with paint marks.

As you near the summit of Gamsspitzl itself the path drifts left, away from the summit, so if you want to tag the top, you will have to make a half hour detour to do so.

Few climbers bother so if you do it, you'll likely have it to yourself. From level with the summit of Gamsspitzl, continue following paint marks along the ridge which separates the 2 most easterly branches of the Wilder Freiger Ferner glacier.

This is a truly spectacular place to find yourself in so concentrate on what you’re doing but try to stop occasionally to soak in the situation.  The ridge leads gently between the 2 sections of glacier and then broadens and climbs up to the summit ridge of Wilder Freiger.

The final section up to the summit ridge is partly on rock and partly on snow/ice.

Depending on conditions and the exact route you take (it can vary depending on whether you prefer rock or snow) crampons might be required.

Whichever exact route you take, cresting the summit ridge is a wonderful feeling, partly because of the huge views across the peaks of the Stubai, Silvretta and Ortler ranges, but also because you know that you are close to the reward for all your efforts to this point! Once on the summit ridge, turn right and head for the summit of Wilder Freiger.

The ridge takes around 15 minutes and is not technical but does require the occasional easy scrambling move in an exposed position so keep concentrating all the way.

Upon arriving at the summit, sign the summit book and take in the panorama! Descend the south-west ridge of the mountain, which is steep and exposed in places but, like what has preceded it, never "difficult".

When the ridge touches the Übeltalferner glacier briefly, drop onto the glacier and head south-southwest down it.

Hug the right side of the glacier and follow it around until you are beneath the MüllerHütte.

Climb straight up to the hut, which sits in a superb position overlooking the peaks of the Italian Ortler.