A simple but beautiful glacial journey

Statistics

191

m

244

m

18

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Easy

Description

Italians have a great habit of putting cute tiny bivouac huts in convenient places.

This is a very good example of this and it is placed perfectly for those doing the traverse of the Breithorn the following day.

Other alternatives might be Pollux and Castor, which you could easily do in a day from there, down to the Quintino Sella Hut.

It really adds to the experience of the mountains, spending a night in a hut like this, particularly watching the fading light in the evening and looking at the Ayas valley thousands of metres below.

Clearly you need to be acclimatised to consider staying here.

If not then you are much better staying at the Ayas Hut lower down, in more comfort, with less of a headache in the morning.

From the Klein Matterhorn lift you have a small net height loss to get to your hut.

There is invariably a good trail in the snow as there are many popular objectives all around.

A small rise up initially to a vague glacial shoulder is followed by a gently downhill track.

The biggest hazard is crevasse danger, so be sure to have lots of rope between you, and knots too if you are just in a pair.

There is a final snowy ascent to the hut.

If the glacier is particularly crevassed it is better to go underneath the spur and go up from the far side, where there is a fixed rope to help.

This adds only a very small amount of height gain, and is preferable if there is no track the other way.