A relatively short route to a fantastic summit with breathtaking views of the S side of Mont Blanc









FATMAP difficulty grade



This is an early season route, which becomes both icy and dangerous from rockfall from mid-season onwards.

For this reason, it may be impractical from mid-July, unless it is a particularly snowy summer (i.e.

not 2019).

Follow the standard approach, common to many routes, from the Torino Hut, towards and underneath the Aiguille de Toule and the Aiguilles d'Entrèves.

In a dry summer it may be possible to complete the route direct from Col d'Entrèves along the rocky ridge, though this is harder and may also have icy slopes approaching the ridge.

Branch off R from the standard approach to Col d’Entrèves, heading towards the steep E facing snow slopes of the Tour Ronde.

There are a number of ways up this, but there is usually a good track in, weaving its way through the rocks.

You head diagonally R at the level of a large block to reach the SE ridge, by the line of least resistance.

From there it is predominantly a snowy crest, towards the summit, with the final rocks taken on the R.

Descent is the reverse of ascent.

Sometimes it is easier to carry on a little further down the ridge, then rappel from Col Freshfield.

This is also a possibility in ascent, conditions varying by the season.