Though this a normal route it is a relatively steep route up a N Face and is an avalanche black spot

Statistics

980

m

980

m

29

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Moderate

Description

This is a magnificent summit, somewhat dwarfed by its bigger neighbours, but nonetheless has some fantastic routes, completely independent of other mountains.

The ordinary route to the summit is a short diversion from the 3 Monts Route up Mont Blanc.

It should not be underestimated though, as it is exposed to serac fall and avalanche danger, as well as being significantly above 4000m.

It is possible to do it return from the first Midi lift, but this is demanding and will lead to a very hot return up the Midi in the afternoon.

More civilised is to do it with an earlier start from the Cosmiques Hut.

The route marked here is return from the Midi. Descend the sharp exposed snowy ridge from the Midi, and traverse under the S Face of the Aiguille du Midi across the Col du Midi.

Give the NE triangle of the Tacul a wide berth in ascent as you join the inevitably substantial track going up the route.

The exact position varies quite a bit from year to year, according to the position of the crevasses and seracs.

In certain years it is equipped with the odd fixed rope or even ladder, to negotiate particularly difficult parts.

From the shoulder of the Tacul at about 4100m leave the main track heading up Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc, heading E the SE towards the final mixed buttress leading to the summit.

This is relatively straightforward mixed scrambling, with odd bits of protection as needed.

Descent is the same in reverse.