Description

This route is fantastic but very popular.

It can be done as a half day route by very quick teams but there can be queues, so best to allow a day.

There has been significant rockfall, changing it in 2018.

Given the unstable nature it is prudent to get the latest information from the Guides Office, as printed information may be out of date.

Take the usual descent from the Midi as for Mont Blanc du Tacul, but branch off this as it flattens out, following a good track, as for the Cosmiques Hut.

Head up to the R of the hut, to the base of the ridge.

There is an easy start up to a minor fore summit then descend towards a gendarme.

It used to go on the S side of the ridge here, but due to the recent rockfall, it now involves a 6m then an 8m rappel on the shady side, then following a fixed rope horizontally, before returning to the ridge.

Traverse a short distance then pass under the Grande Gendarme on the sunny side, returning to the ridge again.

It is flat for a short way before you arrive at the crux final section.

This is a short steep wall, which may have a rope down it to aid on, as well as well as scratched crampon holes in the rock, to assist progress.

From here head R into a chimney, then up to the crest of the ridge again.

The final section is a couple of pitches of steep mixed climbing on big holds, up a chimney on the Chamonix side.

This leads to a final easy section ridge, taking you a ladder, to climb up to the viewing platform.

Non climbers will be in abundance to take your photo!