FATMAP difficulty grade
Tourenbericht: https://www.suedtirolalpin.it/post/sas-rigais-nordwestrinne Route description: For a few years, the idea of climbing through this couloir right on the north side of Sas Rigais and, if possible, ski it, was in my dreams.
The years passed and the plan was postponed because either there was too little snow in the Dolomites or none of my climbing partners was too enthusiastic about the idea.
After a bit of convincing work I was finally able to inspire Armin for the project and on a windy day we stood at the parking lot “Ranui” in “St.
Magdalena.” We first climbed towards “Brogleshütte” and then continued through the forest on the ascent track to the slope higher up until we crossed the “Adolf-Munkel-Weg”.
We followed this to the east until we were below “Sas Rigais”.
Through a band that separates one base from the rest of the wall we crossed from east to west to the entrance of the steep and narrow couloir.
In the protection of a large rock we mounted the crampons, saddled the skis on our backpacks and took our ice axes.
As we hoped, we were completely protected from the wind in the inside of the couloir and in good snow conditions we quickly got higher. Since there was absolutely no information to find about this couloir, we had equipped ourselves with a few ice screws and 3 Camalots as well as a few nails for possible abseilers if we can ski it.
About halfway through the channel, we reached the first climbing site.
There was no ice and we had to climb on dry rock (IV – 5mt).
With the help of a friend and a dug-in ski as a backup we passed the barrier. Now the channel became a little steeper and narrower again.
Here we discovered, that there was no way to ski it in these conditions.
Deep gutters, which were eaten out by slippery snow on the surface, combined with the steepness of up to 50° in places, were good arguments for a descent on the southern flank of the “Sas Rigais”.
But we weren’t up there yet.
It was followed again by a very short ascent in the ice as well as a climbing passage over a rock block, and a spreader over 3 meters in the vertical snow, the rest was done with staples.
We had to quickly reject the idea of going on to the summit, as we had collapsed quite deep into the snow after we had crossed the approximately 100 meters from the descent to the “Via ferrata” to continue the ascent over it.
So we saddled back on our skis and looked for a way over the steep south flank.
Here it is necessary to cross to the right (in the direction of descent) in order to get over the “via ferrata” back to the ascent track to the “Mittagsscharte” from “Val Gardena” side. Again 100 Meters to climb and we were at the “Mittagsscharte”.
Here we were able to ski down all the way to “St.
Happy with the successful round and the plan that finally was putted into practice, we returned to civilization after a full and demanding day.