Description

This is one of the best classic 4000m peak traverses in the Alps, and begins from the Almageller Hut, which you approach the day before.

This is a beautiful walk in itself.

This traverse is never too difficult, though involves some easy scrambling.

From the summit you descend by the ordinary route to the Hohsaas Hut and the lift to the valley.

This route is certainly considerably more effort than using the lift system on the N side of the mountain.

However, you are rewarded with the pleasure of traversing the summit, as opposed to the usual out and back trip.

Another bonus is that you will spend minimal time under the threatening seracs on the N side of the mountain. From the hut take the steepening path up towards the ridge, where you turn N and go over a small minor summit.

You now descend slightly, before climbing again following the ridge either on its crest, or, perhaps more easily off to the R.

You will need to get back onto the ridge by about 3800m, where it becomes steeper.

It is pleasant scrambling, not too difficult on well-travelled rock.

Cross a foresummit at about 3970m, before taking the sensational final ridge to the true summit, joining the hordes from the other side! The descent is following the obvious track, whose exact position varies from year to year, according to the seracs.

Definitely check the condition of the glacier with a hut guardian, or the local Guides Office, before committing to this descent, as occasionally it is very dangerous and they forbid this route.