Description

From the Monte Rosa hut, with a very early start, take the path SE through the moraine, leading up steepish ground to arrive on the glacier, on easier angled terrain, at about 3300m.

Fairly soon there is a band of crevasses to negotiate, so make sure you have the rope on as soon as you meet snow, as the exact position of the beginning of the glacier is unclear.

After this the glacier is generally easier and your route takes the path of the lowest angle, for several hours, then at about 4100m the track may split.

Tracks to the L lead to the Silbersattel, the saddle between Nordend and Dufourspitze, but this is usually more difficult.

You are taking the R split which heads in the direction of the final rocky ridge to the summit.

You join this either from an obvious snowy col, or taking the slope to its L, joining the ridge just above the col.

This slope may become icy later in the season, so may a large crevasse split the slope, both making it more difficult.

The rocky ridge is very exposed but never too difficult, again taking the most obvious line, with occasional small sections of descent too, on well scratched rock, before reaching the summit cross, with a staggering view in all directions.

Descent is the reverse of ascent, and many choose to spend a second night in the hut.