One of the most exciting and aesthetic moderate routes in the Tantalus.









FATMAP difficulty grade



From the Tantalus Hut, head clockwise around the lake following the trail to the Sandspit Camp (start of route line).

Climb away from the lake along the creek to Niobe Basin and then traverse up and across slopes to gain the base of the North Face of Niobe.

Cross snow slopes or rock slabs to the base of the prominent North Rib. The crux may be getting across the moat from snow onto the rock but aim for a ramp that will take you out onto the rib.

Follow generally good rock with a bit of bush/heather up to a slab and steeper portion where you'll find stiff 4th class up to 5.5 climbing taking you to the summit! If you find yourself in 5.10 terrain, you're off route.

Generally the crest or slightly right is the best rock.

Not a great choice when the weather is wet. From the summit, descend east on snow slopes from the Niobe-Pelops Col (as shown).

If there's exposed ice on these slopes, it's easier & safer to go up and over Pelops via the 3rd class scramble route to get back down to the basin. This is a long route so most parties will opt to solo the majority of it, if not the whole thing.

Belaying the entire thing would be an all-day affair.

That being said, a short rope and very small rack isn't a bad idea to have along - especially if the moat presents a big obstacle.