A mythical run down a hanging glacier overlooking Chamonix, the steep and serious the first pitch is often icy and has led to many an accident.

Statistics

5

m

789

m

50

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Extreme

Description

Head out of the Midi station and down the ridge.

Traverse under the south face of the Aiguille du Midi towards the Refuge des Cosmiques.

Traverse under the small rock band below the tiny Abri Simond hut.

Side step up to a small col just to the left of the Abri Simond.

Make an exposed and sometimes rocky traverse rightwards to reach the top of the Glacier Rond.

The face can offer amazing skiing in committing terrain but is very much extreme skiing.

The line should be approached cautiously as it is often icy at the top and a fall here could be fatal.

Traverse the ridge to the left and ski the prominent spine below the tower.

Descend the face.

Shortly after the rimaye traverse left into the top of the exit couloir.

(The terrain below this ends in a giant serac so make sure you don't go past the exit couloir.) The entrance to the exit couloir is often rocky and may require side stepping or down-climbing.

Ski the large couloir all the way to the Glacier des Bossons where you rejoin the exit of the Cosmiques Couloir.