One of the big days on the Haute Route taking in the summit of the Rosablanche


5 - 6









FATMAP difficulty grade



Leave the Mont Fort Hut and skin up on the side of the piste before picking a line towards the open bowl below the Col de la Chaux.

A short steeper section just below the col is often climbed on skis in a rising traverse from the right avoiding too many kick turns.

From the col take a traversing line on the right to avoid too much descent before fixing the skins once again to climb through some undulating terrain towards the Col de Momin.

This is passed easily with a steady ascent up the 'Grand Desert' glacier towards the summit of the Rosablanche.

It is usually possible to depot the skis and climb the short distance to the very summit on foot. From the Rosablanche there is a long glacial descent which in good conditions stays on the right hand side of the glacier, before swinging left slightly at the glacial snout below Pt.


After descending this steeper section swing back to the right to exit the Glacier de Prafleuri.

The line is intricate here and good visibility is essential to avoid the small but steep slopes above the Prafleuri Hut- there are many minor variations here.

Once these are behind you all that remains is a small flatter section towards the Hut. Take crevasse rescue kit in your group and have recently practised prussiking and crevasse rescue.

A minimum would be 30m ropes x 2 in the group, and each person to carry a long sling, 3 screwgate karabiners, prussiks and an ice screw.

Mechanical devices such as minitraxion, tibloc and ropeman can make it a lot easier.