A relatively minor summit, but a 4000m peak nonetheless, surrounded by others.

Statistics

646

m

646

m

26

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Moderate

Description

This is an excellent day to a fantastic viewpoint and relatively easy, compared to traversing Castor, as your summit is lower, and it is less exposed.

From the Ayas Hut reverse your descent of yesterday, heading upwards, N, onto the broad shelf of the glacier then E, towards the foot of Pollux.

At 3750m head N again, to the foot of the SW ridge.

You can leave any extra unwanted heavy kit here, as this is an out and back route.

Follow the line of least resistance above, near to the mixed ridge with easy rocky steps, heading for an obvious steepening on orange rock above.

Look for the chains hanging down and use them to haul your way up onto easier snow slopes above, leading to the summit.

In very snowy conditions, early or late season probably, there is also an easier route, avoiding rock in ascent and descent, but is often icy.

However, if in condition, you can take this snowy line to the L of the SW ridge, known as the W flank, with slopes up to 45 degrees between rocky buttresses.

From the summit reverse your ascent route.