A condition dependent high altitude traverse over the shoulder of Lyskamm









FATMAP difficulty grade



In some conditions this is the technical crux of the Italian Classic 4000er Spaghetti Tour.

Il Naso is an exposed slope, which is prone to icy conditions.

It is worth checking with the huts, before you start this route, to the state of this slope, as in icy conditions it is demanding and you will be pleased with steel points on your crampons.

Occasionally after poor snowfall and high winds it can be stripped back to blue glacial ice, in which case it will be best avoided altogether.

From the Quintino Sella Hut head up the Felik Glacier in a NE direction.

Pass pt 3744m to its L and continue ascending slightly.

Swing to the E onto the Glacier de Lys, once above crevassed ground, broadly heading for the foot of il Naso, slanting slightly SE to get to its foot.

This will be negotiated on crampons, with or without the odd ice screw runner if needed.

Once over this nose head steeply down and L into a broad easy open snowy bowl, underneath the E summit of Lyskamm, 4527m.

There now follows about a kilometre of fairly flat glacier heading to the SE.

You are aiming towards the saddle to the L of Pyramid Vincent.

Once closer to this peak you join other tracks from below, which lead you down to the to the Gnifetti hut at 3647m.