Description

The on-foot approach to the Jim Haberl Hut is no gimmie! From the Tantalus Hut at Lake Lovely Water, follow faint trails around the north side of the lake.

This turns into the Lamda Lake Trail, mostly contouring around LLW with some exposed rock sections protected by a chain.

When you reach the much smaller Lamda Lake, cross it somewhat directly through swampy terrain.

More rolling sections of trail deposit you at treeline in a massive avalanche basin called the Russian Army Camp (so big you could fit the entire Russian Army!).

Cross the flats and start climbing up a major creek on the right side of the headwall.

If the creekbed gets unpleasant, traverse right onto heather slopes.

At the top, cross back over the creek onto easier scree or snow slopes below the South Face of Serratus.

Make a long rising traverse of snow slopes aiming for the Serratus-Ionia Col.

The final pitch here is glacier ice with objective hazard coming from the SW Couloir above.

At the col, descend onto the north side of the col and skirt under the West Rib of Serratus.

This can be a mellow snow slope in early season or a steep and convoluted ice climb when bare glacier is exposed.

Be prepared for difficulties here! Cross under the West Face of Serratus to the rocks and the Haberl Hut.

Reservations are made through the Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Section.