7 - 8
FATMAP difficulty grade
Starting from Cervinia, we set off on a fast and light single push up the mighty Matterhorn. We had had our eyes on this route and inn this style all summer and with a decent cold snap to hold this crumbling monolith in place, we set off from the car at 5am. We started off at a fast but steady pace and before we knew it were catching up with parties that had left the hut at the same time.
Never too difficult, there is a lot of exposure and it is still a serious environment. We arrived at the summit after 4 hours and 5 minutes, somewhat slower than Kilian's speed record but extremely happy to just move in the mountains so smoothly.
After a little pause, a bite to eat, and a quick chat with some guide friends who happened to be on the summit too, we started our descent. It is still a tricky descent and so with some careful down climbing and a few abseils, we knew now was not a time to become complacent and make a mistake. 7 hours and 45 minutes after leaving the car, we arrived back down, tired but extremely happy.