FATMAP difficulty grade
Pinnacle Gully is a spectacular WI3 ice climb in the heart of Huntington Ravine.
It climbs through a deep notch in the mountain, with a huge overhanging wall casting it's dark shadow over the upper pitches.
It's often the first to from and the last to bake out in any given ice season.
Crampon up the fans towards Central Gully, then cut left above the boulder field when the gully is in view.
The first pitch is a full pitch of WI3.
Belay at the top where the ice meets the snow.
The next two pitches are a mix of ice and snow.
Be aware that this gully is prone to wind loading, the snow up top could be 3 feet of windslab waiting to wash your party out of the gully.
Give new snow 48 hours or more to settle, use your best judgement and live to climb another day.
The gully tops out about 100 feet below the alpine garden.
Scramble up through Talus and gain the alpine garden.
Descent options include Escape Hatch, Right Gully and Lion's Head Winter Route.