Description

The iconic Romsdalshorn is the altar of Romsdalen and definitely the most popular climb in the area, probably in the whole country! There is no wonder why - you get the most spectacular view there is over the mighty Troll Wall.

Also the climb has a moderate character and short approach, which makes it available to climbers at all levels. Park either at the parking lot below Litlefjellet or the innermost in Vengedalen.

Regardless of which you choose, follow a trail which leads you up to the north ridge of Romsdalshornet.

When up on the ridge, follow it southwards towards the north face of Romsdalshornet.

The approach follows well marked trails all the way until you reach a narrow gap in the ridge.

Here the scrambling starts and you should wear a helmet from now on.

Traverse a bit to the left before turning up right again, there should be recognisable traces of trails up the N/NE face of the mountain.

After scrambling some vertical meters, the wall really steepens and it’s time to rack up for the first pitch.

This is the most difficult pitch (4c/PD+) and leads straight up the wall to a ledge where the old abseil anchor is located.

Feel free to use this as a stance.

The second pitch goes first left around a corner, then turning right up the hillside.

Now it’s a bit more of a pathfinding, but softer climbing.

A general tip is to just head right up the wall by the way of least resistance.

It’s a bit vague where the route actually goes, but if you pass a solid iron ring on top of an outcropping rock on pitch 2 or 3, you’re on the right way.

There are 5-6 pitches in total to get right beneath the summit.

On the top plateau there are two huge wards and a little shelter.

For the descent, there is an established descent route from the summit located to the ascender’s right of the climbing route.

From the summit, go straight to the north behind the “twin-wards” down to a comfortable ledge, where the first anchor is located.

The other anchors are located in the fall line from this one.

Be aware of loose rocks, there are still quite a few of them.