One of the best and longest extreme couloirs in the Mont Blanc Massif

Statistics

3 - 4

hrs

957

m

957

m

57

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Extreme

Description

Yet another ultra classic steep line on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Ski down from top lift station of the Aiguille du Midi and skin up to the bottom of the couloir.

Just after the bergschrund, there is a 5-15 meter high step of 60 plus degree ice.

Continue up the couloir and past another much smaller ice step.

At two thirds height the couloir splits.

The climber's right hand side is the more classic line.

The couloir tops out at a little col on the Diable Arete.

It is sometimes possible to ski directly into the top of the line from near the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Ski back down the same way, taking advantage of the slight north-east aspect of the skier's right side of the lower half of the couloir.

Abseil over the bottom ice step and skin back to the top lift station of the Midi or the Skyway or continue down the Vallee Blanche.