3 - 4
FATMAP difficulty grade
In some conditions this is the technical crux of the Monte Rosa Haute Route as the Passo del Naso is an exposed slope which is prone to ice.
It is worth checking with the huts before you start this tour to the state of the Passo del Naso, as in icy conditions it is demanding and you will be pleased with steel points on your crampons.
Occasionally after poor snowfall and high winds it can be stripped back to blue glacial ice in which case it will be best avoided.
From the Quintino Sella Hut head up the Felik Glacier in a NE direction.
Pass pt 3744m to its L and continue ascending slightly, before swinging to the E onto the Glacier de Lys, once above crevassed ground, broadly heading for the foot of il Naso, slanting slightly SE to get to its foot.
This may be skinned, but in normal conditions is negotiated at least partly on crampons, with or without the odd ice screw runner if needed.
Once over this nose head steeply down and L into a broad easy open snowy bowl underneath the E summit of Lyskamm, 4527m.
There now follows about a kilometre of fairly flat glacier heading to the SE.
You are aiming for the saddle to the L of Pyramid Vincent.
Once closer to this peak you join other tracks from below which you follow and continue skinning easily to the summit at 4215m.
Admire the panoramic views, particularly to the S and E.
Ski initially down the route you have just came up, curving to the L and then descending to the Gnifetti hut at 3647m.