Description

This tour has to be a Lyngen classic.

Perfect alpine tour if avalanche conditions or snow conditions are not very good. The parking lot starts the furthest north point in Lyngen.

Early on cross the small creek bed and follow around the base of the mountain till you have come to the east side of Russelvfjellet.

Follow the gradual slope up to the south summit.

Once on the south summit it is best to rack up and continue on foot across the ridge.

The first half is easy walking.

Be careful for large cornices on the ridge.

In addition several locations will require crossing the entrance of couloirs.

Make sure the snow condition is okay or create some kind of snow anchor to cross these areas.

Depending on snowpack there can always be some kind of avalanche risk.

After half way there is a small exposed step which can change i difficulty based on snow levels.

It is maybe good to bring a small rack with the most common cam and nut sizes for protection.

After this there is a short 15m rappel.

On your left is a good rock to make an anchor if there isn't anything already.

After the rappel follow a very sharp ridge over to the final summit.

The first 10-15m is the most exposed and here it is possible to protect the first person crossing.

After that the walking is quite easy.

Once on top it is possible to either ski down the north flank to the ocean or on the east side of the north summit back to where one came from.

Note that there are some alternative ski options on the west face which would be very fun to ski if conditions were good.