Linking up the classic West Ridges of the South and North Twin Sister.

Statistics

1,984

m

1,984

m

29

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Easy

Description

The west ridges of the South and North Twin Sisters are respectively excellent alpine rock scrambles.

The rock is uniquely grippy and makes for very pleasant climbing.

With a bit of added adventure, the peaks can be linked in a traverse that avoids the out-and-back nature of climbing one of the ridges.

This traverse could be completed in either direction but by doing the S Twin first, it seems to make for harder climbing going up and easier scrambling on the descents.

The traverse is technically 4th class but a short rope may be handy for rappelling difficulties or for reaching the glacier depending on the snowpack.

As well, some glacier travel is required.

This is less often travelled so don’t expect in-situ stations! Park at the gate and run up the logging road to the split.

Follow the smaller trail towards the W Ridge of the South Twin.

Continue on the well travelled ridge to the summit then drop down the pleasant 3rd class NE Ridge.

This may be obscured by a snow patch so be sure you’re going the correct direction, especially if it’s early season.

There are several options to gain the Sister’s Glacier depending on snowpack.

At a major notch in the ridge, it may be possible to drop N to the snow.

It’s also possible to downclimb to the toe of the buttress.

Finally, it may be easiest to drop SE off the notch onto snow and then walk under the toe of the buttress.

Either way, head for the low col between the S and N Twin Sister. Gain the SE Ridge of the N Twin and follow the crest on much less well travelled terrain.

Generally turn difficulties on the left side and it should never be more than 4th class.

From the summit, you’re back on travelled terrain descending the W Ridge (or the N Face if high snow).