Description

Expect a 4 to 5 hours approach to the refuge, depending on the conditions. From the station of Montenvers, descend towards the Grotte de glace (using either the gondola lift or the stairs).

Some 50 meters before the entrance to the ice cave, by a little hut, leave the metallic path by jumping over the fence.

Make your way over to the Mer de glace, and head upstream.

N.B.

the first part of the glacier is very rocky with some patches of clear ice, so it’s better to way until very late before putting crampons on. After some 30-40 minutes you will encounter a river splitting the glacier in two.

Whenever possible and safe, cross to the side of the Aiguille Verte by walking on the boulders stuck between the two faces of the river.

Continue making your way upstream. After passing Les Moulins and much before the junction of glacier de Tacul and glacier de Leschaux, you will see on the left wall a big yellow sign, and next to it a long staircase.

Make your way to it by walking up the moraine (some cairns help finding the easier ways).

The stair is easy to climb, but if one so wishes, it’s possible to use the many fixed carabiners to simulclimb while staying connected by the rope going through fixed gear. At the top of the stairs, a rope is not needed anymore.

One just needs to follow the path and the signs until reaching the refuge.