Day 3: The largest summit in the Bernese Oberland and the 15th highest major 4000m peak in the Alps.


4 - 5









FATMAP difficulty grade



This is a straight up out and back trip from the Finsteraarhorn Hut.

The glacial slopes approaching the high col, the Hugisattel at 4088m, are relatively steep but are wide, hence great for the ski down.

The ridge itself to the summit is very airy with huge drops in places down the E face to your L.

However the rock is excellent and it is a very enjoyable scramble. From the hut either climb steeply up the continuation of the slope you used to approach the hut, or traverse horizontally S to get around a rocky buttress, then ascend relatively gentle slopes up and L to meet the other route 100m or so above the hut.

Continue up wide slopes to the N, aiming for the Fruhstuckplatz at 3616m.

This is a rocky ridge that you will easily cross, usually for a short while on foot, before traversing horizontally onto the next glaciated section to the W.

Head up here more steeply again until the Hugisattel at 4088m, where you leave your skis.

Scramble up the ridge, on ts R side, taking the line of least resistance and watching out for cornices.

There are tricky passages, with occasional downhill steps too, needing good ropework, eventually leading to the summit after 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Descent is the reverse of ascent to the skis and then down to the hut.