Loop Brook to Asulkan Valley via Dome Col

Statistics

1

day +

1,647

m

1,525

m

27

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Extreme

Description

Also called the Lily Traverse, this one is a more complex traverse than Youngs or Little Sifton IMHO.

I did it with a guide and I was glad I did.

Route shown takes you up Lily Glacier from Loop Brook through the Dome col, down the Dome Glacier into the Asulkan Valley. Bring ski crampons, as there a steep slippery section early on where the Ross Mountain drainage meet Loop Brook. The terrain was much bigger than I expected.

I would only consider doing this one again (unguided) under very stable conditions with simple avalanche problems to manage and no known sudden changing conditions (snow storm, high winds, rapid heating, etc.).

Once you get off the large moraine, you will be in the guts of some large mountains to your lookers left until you reach the plateau beneath Lily. The Lilly glacier was badly crevassed and when we did it (winter 2023, low snow year) the ice was visible.

We roped up and had an extra rescue rope and two parties.

There is a steep roll section at the top even if you stay to the lookers right.

So even if the "gradient" shows low angle, there is a steep section you will have to manage while roped up.

Again, glad I had a guide. The boot pack isn't too bad but is exposed.

Ice axe was handy.

Carry boot crampons just in case, as a fall would likely result in a serious injury.

Lastly, there is a small band of rocks/cliffs you have to navigate through to get onto the Dome glacier from the col.

We had a small drop off/straight line shot we had to do get onto the Dome from the Col.

Once again, I was glad we had a guide.

I felt this was relatively complex traverse compared to others I have done.

So be prepared if you attempt it. More info from a good write up on the tour here: https://beyondourpeak.com/dome-col-traverse-glacier-skiing-at-its-finest/