Stunning north face route in Aiguille du Midi









FATMAP difficulty grade



Mallory Porter climbing route in the North face of Aiguille du Midi allows you to reach the summit in a few hours from the intermediate station. From the refuge du plan de l'aiguille (or intermediate station), cross the Glacier des Pélerins towards Eperon Seigneur.

You will see the entrance of the couloir; start the climb, and soon the first mixed pitch will welcome you.

You can get around it on the right (usually you will see footsteps from previous climbers) or climb directly in the crack on the left (more difficult, 2-3 friends needed).

A steep snowy couloir will then allow you to reach the next mixed section (2 friends useful).

Get around the serac on the right and climb in the rocky crack to reach the last couloir part towards the ridge. The final station seems close, but don't get fooled - there is still quite a climb to reach the top! The last section might be in ice - having a few (5-6) ice screws is recommended to climb up or traverse the last icy part towards the final ridge where you will find the Aiguille du Midi summit! Enjoy the stunning view and the ride down to Chamonix if you don't miss the last departure.

Otherwise, the toilets from the Aiguille du Midi will be your friends for the night...