Description

The Kalhiltna Queen, also known as Humble Peak, is a stunning and prominent mountain separating three major glacial basins.

Its West Face is perhaps the most spectacular steep ski descent accessible from Kalhiltna Basecamp.

With a prominence of 1,000 meters vertical above the South-East Fork of the colossal Kalhiltna Glacier, the West Face of Kalhiltna Queen was once a classic alpine route of moderate difficulty.

It has gone since gone out of fashion as climb but still sees some ascents from teams looking to acclimatise before tougher objectives.

Good ski conditions can be hard to come by with the line having both south and west facing aspects to it.

A good buildup of snow is required to cover the steep rocky slope on the south side near the summit and there is often exposed ice on the top slopes of the west face.

A prominent and aesthetic couloir comprises the first half of the line.

This is sustained at 50 degrees for 600 meters vertical.

The upper 400 meters are more technical and can be difficult to ski through without rappelling.

Dropping into the top of the west face proper, there are pitches sustained at 55 degrees over massive exposure.

Despite its accessibility from Basecamp there have been only three known descents of the West Face, and only one from the summit without rappel.

It is perhaps the most technically demanding line that has been skied in the area.

Allow for two hours minimum to skin to the bergschrund from Basecamp, and another 4-5 hours to climb the line.

The lower couloir will heat up quickly in the afternoon and can become dangerous.