Long lonely climb to a big peak

Statistics

2,583

m

2,583

m

29

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

NB track shows a more direct way to reach the face bypassing the Gratton..

for normal people approach and sleep at the bivouac on the first day... The Gratton Bivouac is located at 3200 m.

From here continue slightly uphill to the left following cairns and faded yellow marks.

You begin to descend (for about 100 m) using a series of chains that lead to the Trajo glacier.

Cross it flat to the right paying attention to the hidden crevasses (bell-shaped and aiming for the crumbling slope at the base of the collar between Grivoletta and Grivola.

Go up it following the sporadic cairns making a sort of curve from right to left and you reach the hill where the small Balzola Bivouac is located. Crest: follow the NE ridge for the first few meters on the edge. Traverse slightly downhill to the left, climbing back to the ridge and then traversing the right side (N) possibly on snow.

There are several towers that go directly or on the sides.

One with a particular shape (mushroom) goes over a wall (III) on the right side.

Then, a tapered tower is overcome with a challenging dihedral (nail, IV) and descends on the opposite side with a double of 20 meters.

Continue to the left and climb up the edge up to a new abseil (10 meters) and a tower (IlI, nail) which is faced by steps slightly to the right.

Continue on the wire or possibly to the right for snow until you reach the intersection with the slope of the normal route.

Continue through debris on the left side of the ridge to the top