5.5 climbing route to the Grand Teton summit

Statistics

2,218

m

2,218

m

20

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

Start at Lupine Meadows trailhead.

Follow the switchbacks toward Ampitheater Lake, turning left toward Garnet Canyon after 6-7 switchbacks. Followed the trail through a couple boulder fields, turning right at the Meadows toward the Lower Saddle.

(Left takes you to Middle / South.) Navigate the boulder fields, scree and talus to Fixed Rope, then approach the Upper Saddle along the same route to Owen Spalding.

After Chockstone Chimney traverse right, through the Exum Gully to Wall Street Ledge. After the first move -- Step Across -- you're on Exum Ridge.

See Wyoming Whiskey (below) for route details. 5.5 climb rating.

Most parties use ropes for protection (esp.

on Step Across, Golden Staircase and Friction Pitch), but free solo attempts also common. Descend via Owen Spalding, either downclimb or rappel from Sargent's.

Then, reverse course back to Lupine Meadows. Full trip report: https://www.grizzliesandavalanches.com/grand-teton-upper-exum/ Best Upper Exum guide: https://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_4.html