5.5 route up Moran, accessed via Leigh Lake paddle

Statistics

4 - 5

hrs

1,792

m

1,791

m

26

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

Start at the Leigh Lake trailhead.

Paddle String Lake, then portage to Leigh Lake.

Paddle to the Falling Ice Glacier drainage.

(You can also hike, but it's a tricky bushwhack from the Patrol Cabin.) Ascend boulder / talus along the runoff.

~Halfway up, turn left and follow a trail to Drizzlepuss.

Rappel (or downclimb) to the start of CMC Face. There are many variations up CMC Face, from low class 5 on the south ridge to mid-5s closer to the Black Dike.

Rappel (or downclimb) back to Drizzlepuss, upclimb being the crux.

Reverse course from the Drizzlepuss summit. We used two 60m ropes and a mix of cams / nuts.

You can find a number of maintained anchors along CMC Face and one on Drizzlepuss. Full trip report: https://www.grizzliesandavalanches.com/cmc-face/