Description

This is a popular short N Face that is usually in good condition in the spring and early summer.

Late summer and autumn may bring conditions back in, but it is often not good in August.

Take the major track from Helbronner, as for the described route Traverse of the Auiguille d’Entrèves, descending to near its lowest point, underneath the Aiguille de Toule.

The exact crossing point of the rimaye will vary from year to year, and indeed the face itself can be climbed almost anywhere.

In good conditions the most aesthetic line is to go to the R of a rocky buttress in the centre of the face.

This leads to a narrow gully that splits the rocks either side, taking you up a few pitches to a snowy crest.

In leaner conditions it may be better to go more up the centre of the face, then trending R at the top.

Both routes lead to a final snowy crest, then easy rocks to the summit.

Descend either E ridge or the W face.

Both are marked as the route Traverse of the Aiguille de Toule.