Very versatile tour that demands a lot of experience. Big line in an awesome setting.

Statistics

2 - 3

hrs

622

m

954

m

53

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

Awesome and demanding line in a high alpine environment.

First documented by Yannick Zeller and Tobias Rungg on bergsteigen.com.

The approach is relatively straightforward until you get to the second steep section.

Here, you have to decide to either get on the ridge or veer up- and leftwards to try and reach the summit through the snow.

The latter requires some rather steep skinning, so that only works if the snow allows it.

The ridge is at times exposed but at most 2nd grade climbing.

From the ridge, don't forget to back look over your right shoulder, the view is amazing! It takes about 2.5 hours to reach the summit, in easy conditions less.

From the summit, descent the ridge until the lowest point before the Kleiner Trögler.

This can be exposed, bring crampons and an axe for this part.

You don't want a ride down the south-east face.

When you reach the entry of the couloir, there's multiple options.

If you're lucky you can put your skis on right away.

With a bit less snow, traverse rightwards a bit, then back left into the couloir and put your skis on here.

If needs be, some groups also enter the couloir via a rappel.

You'll probably notice that the couloir is wider than you thought.

The first section is pure enjoyment.

In bad conditions there can be a short steep section that requires to get off the skis and downclimb.

Afterwards, you'll be skiing towards the main rappel.

Get close to where the couloir is narrow and very steep, there the anchor is on the right.

A 60m rope is required! In prime conditions, the rappel can be skipped, there will probably be a mandatory drop at the end (see picture).

After the rappel it's pure enjoyment again, until you reach the bifurcation for the two possible exits.

This tour shows the right exit, but left is also possible.

Make sure to check from the lift which one has less ice, otherwise this part can end up taking a lot of time.

On either side there can be two small icefalls (5-10m) that you might want to rappel or downclimb.

There's no anchors here.

Again, with good conditions there's no last crux here. After this last spicy section it's time to relax, ski back to the slope and start celebrating the awesome tour you've just done!