5 - 6
FATMAP difficulty grade
This face is rarely in condition and the weather in New Zealand makes it particularly tough to find a "window" in which to attempt the face.
We thought we would have to turn back due to ice, but were incredibly lucky to have really good conditions nearly to the summit ridge.
We started from the Plateau hut, crossing the glacier on skins at 2am before putting on crampons to head over the Bergschrund and on up the face.
The face was in better condition than we anticipated, but ice axes and crampons were still a requirement.
We arrived on the summit ridge at about 9am in the morning and had an amazing ride back down the face, patience paid off.
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