Cayambe is the third highest peak in Ecuador and is situated about 2-3 hours north of Quito.

Statistics

1,193

m

1,193

m

22

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

Cayambe is a spectacular climb with a summit of 5790m.

When Cotopaxi was closed due to an eruption, Cayambe became more popular but people seem to have gravitated back to Cotopaxi.

Cayambe sits directly on the equator and is the highest point and also the only point with snow 365 days a year.

To attempt Cayambe you need to first take a c.2 hour drive from the town of Cayambe up a very bumpy track.

You finally arrive at the Oleas–Ruales–Berge Refugio at 4600m.

Great refugio with toilets, kitchen and some snacks available for purchase.

They can give you dinner and breakfast there.

Normally, Cayambe is a night climb due to it being a glacier, however, but also possible in the early morning depending on weather conditions.

You leave the refuge and head up a steep section of rocky paths with mild clambering.

You will pass Laguna Verde before crossing to the glacier.

Here you will attach you crampons.

Due to the melting glacier, the climb from here is very dependent on the size of the crevasses and the route may change.

Head up the left hand side of the mountain face between two protruding rocks.

The climb from here is pretty straightforward though there are a number of areas you need to be extra vigilant due to large cracks in the glacier.

The final section is spectacular as you traverse across the mountain passed large frozen ice walls.

The final ascent is slightly undulating before you finally reach the summit at 5790m. On your descent look out for the rock that looks like a side profile of a human head (see photos) For this climb you will either be using your own kit or that provided by your guide.

Essentials include, double boots, ice axe, trekking poles, crampons, harness, carabiners and helmet.

For a better idea of kit needed, check out the mountaineering section of www.jamieramsay.net/kit We would recommend Andean Summit Adventure - http://www.andeansummitadventure.com/ For weather monitoring, we would recommend - https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Cayambe/forecasts/5790