Urner Alps Traverse: Steingletscher to Sustli Hut

The traverse of the well named Füffingerstock and a long descent, before a short climb to the Sustli Hut.

Also in Uri, Switzerland

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
6.4 km
Ascent
1.4 km
Descent
1 km
Duration
5-6 hrs
Low Point
1.9 km
High Point
3 km
Gradient
48˚
Urner Alps Traverse: Steingletscher to Sustli Hut Map

From the Steingletscher Hotel climb steeply initially, following roughly the line of the summer path, to the N then E. The angle quickly eases as you gain height, then follow the main valley of the Obertal to the N. At about 2500m you need to head more E, NE, then more steeply N onto the Obertal glacier, which heads up towards your summit for the day, the Fünffingerstock (2994m). There are a couple of possible descents from here. The one most commonly done, as marked, descends a short steep and often rocky couloir to the E, passing just to the N of pt 2993m. When I was here, in a lean snow year, this didn’t look very appealing, so we passed to the NE, then E, the opposite side of the Wendenhorn. This is more open but very steep, about 45 degrees, for 50-100m only then passing through the obvious col to the R, at the bottom of the steep slope, joining the main line lower down. Assuming you have taken the less steep but narrow couloir, from it’s base head SE then E and NE, taking the line of least steepness, in between the rocks, then more easily on wide slopes, down to the stream at about 1930m. From here it is a zig zag climb to the Sustli Hut at 2257m.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

Medium Exposure (E2)

2 out of 4

As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

March, April

Features

  • Alpine
  • Couloir
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area