Mount Sneffels

Climb the Queen of the San Juans, "Colorado's most beautiful mountain."

Alpine Climbing Easy

Distance
7.2 km
Ascent
826 m
Descent
826 m
Low Point
3.5 km
High Point
4.3 km
Gradient
34˚
VIEW ON MAP
Mount Sneffels Map

Description

"Sneffels is often said to be Colorado's best and most beautiful mountain," writes Matt Lemke on SummitPost.org. This aesthetic peak features "symmetry, spires, pinnacles, rugged ridges and beautiful slopes of aspens and flowers," according to Lemke.

The route mapped here is the easiest route to the summit of Sneffels, also known as "the Queen of the San Juans." The approach follows a mellow trail winding up a valley, but don't worry—the climb will soon get much more difficult. Shortly after you pass 12,600 feet, you'll be faced with a loose scree slope without a defined trail. Here, you'll have to climb straight up the mountain, making for the Lavender Col, a saddle resting at 13,560 feet. "If you felt it was very difficult to get to this point, you may not be ready for the remaining climb, and this may be a good place to turn back," cautions 14ers.com.

From the col, you'll begin climbing the upper gulley toward the summit. Don't expect to follow a defined trail here, either, so be prepared to climb straight up the scree or snowfield. If you're climbing early enough in the season for the gulley to hide a snowfield, crampons and an ice axe are recommended. Roughly 30 feet before the top of the gully, turn left and scramble through "a small 'V' notch, which provides the easiest access to the summit," according to 14ers.com. After the notch, only a short rock scramble separates you from the summit of this beautiful mountain!

Sources: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-sneffels/150272 https://www.14ers.com/photos/peakmain.php?peak=Mt.+Sneffels

Difficulty

Easy

The ascent involves simple glacier hiking and/or short, straightforward rock scrambles. Equivalent to Alpine F, F+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

July, August, September

Guidebooks in this area