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Sonklarspitze & Müllerhütte


Stubaier Gletscher

Trentino-Alto Adige

Enjoyable, rarely undertaken high alpine loop

Alpine Climbing Difficult

16 km
1.7 km
1.7 km
Low Point
2.6 km
High Point
3.4 km
Sonklarspitze & Müllerhütte Map

Start at the mountain station of the Schaufeljochbahn, then cross the Gaiskarferner glacier, which is almost free of crevasses and is barren. Then descend via the Hildesheimer Hütte into the Gaiskar. Now via trail 140, passing north of the Gaiskogel, to the Siegerlandhütte. From the Siegerlandhütte, first take the marked trail into the cirque below the Scheiblehnwand. Through easy boulders onto the easy (II+) ridge. Key sections are secured with wire ropes. Then across a firn field to the Hohe Eis (3388m). Either keep your altitude and cross the glacier (crevasses!) or continue along the ridge to the Sonklarspitze (3450m). From here, descend without difficulty (II+) via the east ridge. When crossing the glacier, watch out for falling rocks from the northern flank. Then via the Übeltalferner marked with poles to the Müllerhütte.


The next day along the new path to the east ridge of the Wilden Pfaff, via this unproblematic (II+, key sections secured) to the summit (3458m). Now descend to the saddle between Zuckerhütl and Wilder Pfaff. Here you also have the option of climbing the Zuckerhütl. Then cross the Sulzenauferner (crevasses!) in the direction of Pfaffenjoch (3212m). Short descent over loose scree to reach the summer trail below the Aperen Pfaff. Follow this trail to the top station of the Fernau chairlift. Then a short descent to a glacial lake and the final ascent to the top station of the Schaufeljoch cable car.



The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

High Exposure

3 out of 4

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.


2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

between June and August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Bivy Kit
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area