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Alpine Climbing - Achilies Spire

Banff National Park

Mount Andromache Climbing - Ice Fields Parkway

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
4.2 km
Ascent
804 m
Descent
874 m
Low Point
1.8 km
High Point
2.7 km
Gradient
27˚
Alpine Climbing - Achilies Spire Map

Fully Bolted - (303 m), 13 pitches, Grade III 10 quickdraws

Description

5.8 sport multi-pitch route on Icefields Parkway. A great alpine experience for reasonably low commitment given that there are bolted belays and rap stations at least every 30 meters.

Warning: It is easy to mistaken the right-hand tower as being Achilles Spire. Achilles Spire has a small crumbly tower to its left, a prominent very pointy tower to its right, and narrowing drainages/chimney on each side of it. A large black roof near the right drainage/chimney is a good landmark for Achilles start, the central tower. Make your way up the basin to the base of Achilles Spire.

Start: Below and left of the big black roof with white rock below are smaller overlapping overhangs and a one-bolt station at a small scruffed-out ledge, two hours from the road.

Pitch #1 -, 5 bolts, 20 m 5.5: From the station trend up and left to the first bolt, seven meters. Follow bolts to a left-facing corner and up over a groove/roof/ to a station on the left under a small dirt ledge.

Pitch #2 - 5 bolts, 45 m 5.4: Climb straight up, past a left-facing feature to the big ledge above. Continue past the ring-bolt rap station trending up and right to the next ledge and station.

Pitch #3 - 7 bolts, 40 m 5.6: Climb the steep wall up and right gaining an arete. continuing up a groove. Again, pass a rappel station and up to another big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch #4 - 4 bolts, 20 m 5.6: Locate the first hard-to-see bolt up and right of the station in a black band of rock. Overcome the steep bit and keep trending up and right to a large ledge. The station is under the roof.

Pitch #5 - 4 bolts, 20 m, A0 - 5.6 or 5.8: Climb up and left of the station past two bolts. At the third bolt traverse horizontally left past another bolt and climb up to a ledge and small overhang. Climb straight up for one 5.8 move, pull on the draw at A0, or risk the pendulum easily climbing off to the right of the bolt at 5.6 (recommended). Climb up to the next ledge and continue to a station.

Pitch #6 - 2 bolts, 15 m 5.4: Climb the little rib just left of bolt and up to a ridge and station found on the right-hand side just below the ridge top.

Pitch #7 - 3rd class, 70 m: Walk the ridge to the left until the main buttress, go around it on the left to the base of a beautiful wall and bolt station facing the highway.

Pitch #8 -6 bolts, 28 m 5.7: Climb up and left, then straight up to an alcove atop this perfect vertical rock wall.

Pitch #9 - 4 bolts, 20 m 5.6: Climb up the short chimney gaining a ledge and station on the right.

Pitch #10 - 8 bolts, 26 m 5.7/5.8: The crux of the route and one of the best pitches. Follow the groove, climbing the central wall with cracks on either side. Side step a roof by traversing left and come back right of the crack to a semi-hanging belay on the right.

Pitch #11 - 6 bolts, 28 m 5.6: Angle up the left groove following bolts to a ledge and station.

Pitch #12 - 4 bolts, 20 m 5.5: Leave the station and easily scramble up for 10 metres or so to another ledge at the base of the wall. Climb up great rock on the arete to a ledge and station.

Pitch #13 - 5 bolts, 45 m 5.5: Move up and left around the arete climbing up a small slab and past ledges and a rappel station to another station on the summit. Descent: Rappel the route.

GPX file from https://www.adventureaddictions.com/adventures.php?adventure=210

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

between June and October

Equipment required

  • Quickdraws
  • Climbing Shoes