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Javakhashvili 3A / AD

High recommended alpine climb in Chauhi area. 3D map not accurate..

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
3 km
Ascent
444 m
Descent
446 m
Low Point
3.2 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
23˚
Javakhashvili 3A / AD Map

Detailed Description of Mountaineering Route "Javakhishvili 3А (5а)" Note: The map is not accurate. The route always goes up till the secondary summit. Route Overview: This mountaineering route, rated as 3А (AD), offers a challenging yet rewarding climb. It is important to note that early in the summer, there might be snow, and towards the end, you will encounter ice. The route consists of several pitches (R0 to R5) with well-defined stations for resting and belaying. R0 to R1: Begin your ascent in the Javakhishvili-Leonidze couloir, which may have snow at the start and ice towards the end. Proceed through this section until you reach a saddle where a large rock is located. There, you will find an existing anchor point where you can set up your first station using the available rope. R1 to R2: From the large rock, move to the left towards a chimney (10m, ~5 UIAA grade). A station has been established immediately above the chimney. Avoid stopping at this station. Instead, continue straight for about 5 meters and create a new anchor using the existing second station made of a pair of hooks and slings. R2 to R3: Next, follow a narrow traverse to the right (15m) that leads to the base of a wall. Set up a station on a rocky protrusion ("fang"). R3 to R4: Climb the wall, which is of moderate difficulty (III grade). You will come across an intermediate station before reaching the next station, approximately 15-20 meters further, made with slings and pitons. R4 to R5: The climbing continues until you encounter a small wall with an overhang, where the final station is located (bolts) R5 to Summit: After the final station, you can proceed simultaneously, regardless of the group size. Follow the ridge (II UIAA grade, 80m) that leads to the summit of Javakhishvili (3644m).

Description

Descent: For the descent, it is advisable to have two ropes of 60m or 50m length each. Descend following the same route as the ascent, except for the last pitch. When descending to the second station above the first chimney, rappel not into the chimney but directly onto the saddle with the large rock.

Equipment Needed for the Route: Rope: It is recommended to have two ropes (8mm, 50m, 60m). Friends: 3-4 of sizes 2 and 3 Slings: 2 loops. Quickdraws: 3-4, preferably longer ones. Belay Device Crampons for the colouir

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

1 out of 4

Close to help in case of emergency.

Best time to visit

between June and September

Equipment required

  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Wires and Friends