Ortler Ski Tour: Zufal to Martello Hut

Trentino-Alto Adige

Sulden

Day 2: A remote circular route accessing 2 summits and the opposite side of the mountain.

Also in Trento, Italy

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
13 km
Ascent
1.5 km
Descent
1.2 km
Duration
7-8 hrs
Low Point
2.3 km
High Point
3.4 km
Gradient
46˚
Ortler Ski Tour: Zufal to Martello Hut Map

If conditions allow this is a great day doing a circular route from the Martello Hut. It is an easy angled skin from the Zufal to the Martello Huts- an hour and a half should be plenty of time. You can leave an excess baggage there before continuing.

Description

Traverse up behind the hut, then flat and slightly down in a NE direction to an open area below steeper moraine slopes at about 2560m. Skin more steeply now to about 2700m, where you bend slightly R to avoid steep ground above you. Head back to the L in an E direction at about 2770m, then more steeply at 2820m in a NE direction, before arriving on the obvious open glacier at 2920m.

From here climb up in a sweeping arc to keep to an even gradient and avoiding crevasses, heading eventually up to the Cima Venezia III at 3356m, with skis on packs at the end, on the easy mixed ridge. Admire the fine view of the Adamello massif to the S. You can ski from the summit, S slightly then SE, down beautiful open bowls to about 3050m, before turning SW and gliding as far as you can down a very gentle traverse until it is time to put your skins on again at about 3010m.

Head W then NW into the bowl below the obvious ridge above. You are aiming for an easier angled R to L rampline than takes you up onto the ridge then either steep skin with kickturns or crampon up to the summit of the Cima Marmotta at 3330m. More impressive views to the W open up, including tomorrows objective- the Cevedale.

From the summit of the Marmotta, you walk down a short distance to the W then N onto the easy angled glacier below. There are a choice of descents here. Most tracks go down and then L into a gully which then opens up down and R to the hut. A more open flowing descent, marked here, is to the NE, down the broad easy angled glacier, which eventually leads you down to your early ascent tracks from the morning and traversing back L to the hut.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

High Exposure (E3)

3 out of 4

In case of a fall, death is highly likely.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

March, April

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area