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Monte Rosa - Cresta Rey and SE Ridge Traverse

Macugnaga

Monte Rosa

The Cresta Rey is a serious mountaineering route. It is a beautiful climb that splits the steep south face of the Dufourspitze and leads directly to the summit cross.

Hiking Extreme

Distance
4.9 km
Ascent
767 m
Descent
767 m
Duration
2-3 hrs
Low Point
4 km
High Point
4.6 km
Gradient
30˚
Monte Rosa - Cresta Rey and SE Ridge Traverse Map

700m, AD+, III

Description

Dufourspitze is the principal peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It is the highest point in Switzerland and after the Mont Blanc it is the second highest massif in the Alps. The Cresta Rey splits the steep south face of the Dufourspitze and leads directly to the summit cross. It was first climbed in 1874, by Eustace Hulton guided by Joseph Moser and Peter Rubi. Though it looks imposing from a distance the spur is composed of reassuring blocky gneiss and is remarkably pleasant to climb.

Linking the Cresta Rey with a descent of the south-east ridge and over the Zumsteinspitze makes for an outstanding traverse as this peak. The south-east ridge, though less technical than the Cresta Rey, is far more varied and has rocky slabs, delicate mixed terrain and narrow snow crests all hanging above the precipitous east face.

Difficulty

Extreme

Scrambling up mountains and along technical trails with moderate fall exposure. Handholds are necessary to navigate the trail in its entirety, although they are not necessary at all times. Some obstacles can be very large and difficult to navigate, and the grades can often be near-vertical. The challenge of the trail and the steepness of the grade results in very strenuous hiking. Hikes of this difficulty blur the lines between "hiking" and "climbing".

Extreme Exposure

4 out of 4

Some trail sections are extremely exposed where falling will almost certainly result in serious injury or death.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

between July and September

Features

  • Alpine
  • Picturesque
  • Summit Hike

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Length of rope