Heading out to the Warrior is a bit of a nightmare as you drive towards Lake Coleridge before heading west driving along the southern edge of the Rakaia River. Soon enough you will reach the Glenfalloch station where you need permission to park and start your multi-day trip out into the wild. Follow an obvious trail heading west and before long you will have to cross Lake Stream. In a trip filled with cruxes crossing this stream is one of them as it can have a powerful current with the stream being milky from glacial sediment so be cautious with ever step before arriving on the opposite shore line.

Now that you crossed over Lake Steam it is time to keep heading west along the shoreline of the Rakaia River passing by numerous small huts along the way. The next crux of the trip is climbing up and over Meins Knob and descending down to the Lyman Hut, the trick to this section is to stay in the open rocks where once down low you will spot a small trail that takes you into the valley and over to the hut.

Now that you have the first approach out of the way head up the valley and once at the edge of Lyman Lake start heading south up a stream just above point 1109. Most of this climb is easy but there is a steep section as you transition from the lower to upper basins. Arriving in the upper basin make a hard traverse to the west arriving at a col just south of Prelude Peak. Once on the col start descending while heading north and with a few well placed steps this will take you into Kirk Stream and at the base of the Warrior where you should set up camp and plan for an early start.

Wake up long before sunrise as you need to ski this line in perfect corn but also want the snow to be firm while ascending. Head south up the valley until arriving at the small sub valley where the Armoury Glacier is based and climb up the lookers right side which will give you access to the upper section of the Glacier. From here you will have a view of the upper slopes and have a nice flat section to rest before pushing towards the summit. Spotting the chute on the Warriors Northeast face take out your ice axe and start the steep ascent and once the chute bends towards the south you arrive on the ridge where you can climb rock all the way up to the summit.

The descend is a bit more straightforward on the peak as you can ride down the chute and follow it fall line all the way into the valley. Arriving back at camp you need to retrace your steps back up over to the high col where instead of heading back via or ascent route we were able to ride down the canyon just northwest of Prelude Peak to the Lyman Valley before walking back to the Lyman Hut. Once all is said and done just retrace your steps all the way back to the Glenfalloch station.

For more pictures and the full story check out this link https://www.whereiskylemiller.com/new-zealand/the-warrior/