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West Ridge of Pk 5783

Alex Hale & Chris Lewis' summit attempt on Pk 5783.

Alpine Climbing Severe

Distance
2.9 km
Ascent
814 m
Descent
46 m
Low Point
4.9 km
High Point
5.7 km
Gradient
23˚
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West Ridge of Pk 5783 Map

After two days of rest Alex Hale and Chris Lewis mounted an assault on Pk 5783m. After gaining the west ridge from the Zaroshkul glacier, they faced several difficult ice pitches graded at difficile before turning around 100m vertical from the summit due to concerns about the ice conditions ahead and an impending weather front.

Alex abseiling down the west ridge
Alex abseiling down the west ridge Photo: Chris Lewis
Photo from West Ridge of Pk 5783
Photo: Alexander Metcalfe
The return
The return Photo: Chris Lewis
The return
The return Photo: Alexander Metcalfe
Alex & Chris at their highest point on PK 5783
Alex & Chris at their highest point on PK 5783 Photo: Chris Lewis
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Difficulty

Severe

Steep, sustained and serious terrain on rock/ice. Routes will be long, exposed and possibly committing. D, D+

Extreme Exposure

4 out of 4

The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

in undefined

Equipment required

  • Bivy Kit
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • 2 Ice Axes
  • Wires and Friends