5 routes · Alpine Climbing
Devils Bedstead West
One of the more impressive summits near Sun Valley, but climbed by relatively few.
Alpine Climbing Easy
- 17 km
- 1.1 km
- 1.1 km
- Low Point
- 2.4 km
- High Point
- 3.4 km
Viewed from almost any angle, Devils Bedstead West is an impressive mountain. It has north and south peaks, with the south as the true summit. Both are defined by jumbled cliffs falling away on nearly every side, but the west ridge allows a moderate route to the south summit. The hike begins on Summit Creek Trail from Trail Creek Road.
This trail leads through forests and meadows along a creek, making a relatively easy and pleasant approach all the way to the pass at the top of the drainage. From there, you’ll look over the basin of Right Fork Kane Creek and up to the twin summits of the mountain. Look for a use trail that traverses the upper slopes of the basin. The trail is not purposefully constructed, only worn in by hikers and wildlife, so expect it to be rugged and perhaps hard to follow. You might also have to cross some snow on these north-facing slopes.
The trail leads to the saddle at the base of the west ridge. Head up this scree slope to reach a sub summit, where there's a fin-shaped outcrop that's easily bypassed. From there the ridge steepens, and is covered in irregular-sized talus, but the route remains straightforward.
The ridge leads to a false summit, and then the crux of the route. It's a short section of knife-edge with real fall exposure on both sides. You'll have to carefully scramble along the 50-or-so feet of this ridge. The moves are not difficult, but there are loose rocks.
After that final obstacle, you are there––standing on a wild summit deep in the Pioneer Range. In addition to the view of Devils Bedstead East, you can see straight down over huge cliffs, toward Kane Lake far below. To the west, you can see Bald Mountain and Sun Valley, and more mountains unfolding in every direction. You can even see Borah Peak––tallest in Idaho––clearly to the east.
The ascent involves simple glacier hiking and/or short, straightforward rock scrambles. Equivalent to Alpine F, F+