Diagonal Gully

Diagonal Gully is a serious and highly coveted descent. With sustained 35-40 degree skiing and tight walls, it draws intrepid skiers eyes from miles away. But the 60 ice cliff guarding the exit makes it an extremely consequential line. There are a number of approaches, though the best are likely climbing Diagonal itself or climbing central gully. The line starts slightly below the alpine garden so it can be difficult to onsight from above. The line begins with a 45 degree steep crux, sometimes with a rock outcrop exposed in the middle. There is a safe zone to the right you can pull into to wait for your partners just below this. The pitch "mellows" off from here but is still very sustained skiing, with no safe zones to pull into until you are just above the Harvard Bulge (keep your slough below you!!!). This is where things get tricky, as the walls start to open up, you need to stay high skiers left to skirt the 60 foot Harvard Ice Bulge. Just as you feel you’re getting dangerously close to the edge, a tight, bushy choke to a snow ramp appears to skiers left. Side step or down climb through here into the bottom of Yale Gully. PHEW! You’re safe. Enjoy the open turns down the Fan of Huntington Ravine. This line is some of the most exposed skiing you can get in the east without a mandatory rappel. Be safe, cautious and wait for the right day. Keeping your slough below you on spring days is critical and people have been swept over the bulge before.