Grand Teton via Upper Exum
Grand Teton National Park
5.5 climbing route to the Grand Teton summit
Alpine Climbing Difficult
- Distance
- 26 km
- Ascent
- 2.2 km
- Descent
- 2.2 km
- Low Point
- 2.1 km
- High Point
- 4.2 km
- Gradient
- 20˚
Start at Lupine Meadows trailhead. Follow the switchbacks toward Ampitheater Lake, turning left toward Garnet Canyon after 6-7 switchbacks.
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Description
Followed the trail through a couple boulder fields, turning right at the Meadows toward the Lower Saddle. (Left takes you to Middle / South.)
Navigate the boulder fields, scree and talus to Fixed Rope, then approach the Upper Saddle along the same route to Owen Spalding. After Chockstone Chimney traverse right, through the Exum Gully to Wall Street Ledge.
After the first move -- Step Across -- you're on Exum Ridge. See Wyoming Whiskey (below) for route details.
5.5 climb rating. Most parties use ropes for protection (esp. on Step Across, Golden Staircase and Friction Pitch), but free solo attempts also common.
Descend via Owen Spalding, either downclimb or rappel from Sargent's. Then, reverse course back to Lupine Meadows.
Full trip report: https://www.grizzliesandavalanches.com/grand-teton-upper-exum/
Best Upper Exum guide: https://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/p/blog-page4.html
Difficulty
Difficult
The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+
Medium Exposure
The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.
Remoteness
Away from help but easily accessed.
Best time to visit
Equipment required
- Quickdraws