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Piz Morteratsch

A classic snowy peak, never too difficult, with amazing views

Alpine Climbing Moderate

6.2 km
1.2 km
1.2 km
Low Point
2.6 km
High Point
3.7 km
Piz Morteratsch Map

This is a high peak but an easy one, accessed without difficulty from the Tschierva hut. It is a great ski touring peak, either from the winter quarters of the hut, or in a very big day from Pontresina. In the summer context, particularly if less acclimatised, it is a great summit to do the day before the Biancograt. In particular it gives stunning views of that route, straight on, making it look much steeper than it really is!


I was there in 2017, with Ben Tibbetts and he wanted dawn shots of the famous snow crest of that route, for his 4000m peak book, Alpenglow. We then climbed the Biancograt the following day, for dawn shots on the crest itself. Consecutive 1am breakfasts for us, but you can allow yourself a later one!

Follow the rough path from the hut that leads, with the help of a ladder and some chains, to easy ground. There have been some rock falls in this area, so it is advisable to suss the route out the night before. Easier ground above takes you up onto the glacier above. In the summer this will be dry ice and rubble initially, only becoming snowy further on. Rope up and continue as it swings round, taking steeper ground on the glacial convexity above. There is a choice of 2 routes here, either more steeply onto the ridge above, or head L onto the easier angled glacier. The latter may prove too crevassed later in the season. A short airy snowy ridge leads to easy summit rocks.

Descent is the same in reverse.



May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.


3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

between April and September

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area